Last Day of the Trip, Last Day in South America - Day 23

We took our time getting up this morning since it was our very last day in South America. But these days dragging our feet meant we were ready and packed by 8:30.

Mom of the family had already set out an elaborate breakfast of fresh fruit, bread, home made cheese, natural yogurt and cereal. We ate until we could nearly move.

Dad had planned for us to visit the equator in the morning. The drive took about an hour in and out of the many valleys Quito had. Like most countries I have been to outside of north America, people drove wherever there was road space. Lane lines and sometimes traffic lights were just suggestions.

We arrived at the equator. We thought it was just going to a monument. But it was a whole themed park, very loose theme though. There was a planetarium, insectarium, countless souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. The entrance was 2 USD each. Ecuador started using US currency only a few years ago. Maybe because it was a Monday but the park was very quite, no more than 15 or 20 visitors including us. We took our standard tourist pictures of straddling the equator line. We also went up the monument to get a top view of the surrounding. This was 3 USD extra each.














Inside the monument was a museum about Ecuador and its different indigents people. I was surprised to find out there were African slaves who ended up settling on the coast. The varies tribal people all looked different from each other. That was interesting to me considering Ecuador is not a very big country.

Before leaving the park, we grabbed an ice cream made out of a fruit called Guayana. It tasted like a slightly sour coconut. It was really good especially it was a warm sunny morning.

We had lunch at the house. We hung around the house and played with the dogs until it was time to leave for the airport. The reality had really set in that we were leaving.

It had been a fantastic trip as per usual. I can't wait to plan my next adventure.

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Location:Quito, Ecuador

Galapagos (Day 5) - Day 22

Our last day in the Galapagos. A few of us thought about where we can hide on the boat, so we can stay. Breakfast was early this morning. We were off to the giant tortoise conservation park at 7:15AM. Our luggages were taken off the boat during breakfast and checked through to Baltra airport without us.

A bus drove through the town of Santa Cruz and we arrived at the park before 8. The giant tortoises are the symbol of the Galapagos. When the conservation effort started, there were only 15,000 tortoises left and 11 species (3 had already gone extinct). A lot of them were eaten by humans. Now all tortoise eggs are moved from the islands where they were born to the conservation park incubators to ensure they will not be eaten by rats, cats and other invasive species. The babies are then put back to the islands when they are 4 years or older, so when their shells harden and can fight fir their own survival. There are more than 35,000 tortoises.

We first came across the male and female adult dens. They were kept separate since there are several different species of them and the researchers don't want them to inter mate in order to preserve the species.



The third den lived the famous "Diego" a male tortoise that, for awhile, was helping to preserve his species single handedly.



Then there was "Lonesome George". He is the last of his kind. International efforts have been made to find him a mate with no luck yet.



The last stop in the park was the baby tortoise nursery and incubators. They were all microchipped and their survival rate is 80% when released.



Around 9AM, we finished our park tour. I think everyone was a bit sad that it was all over. A bus drove for about 50 minutes to a port. We got on a large wooden ferry boat for a very slow 10 minute ride. Then we were on a bus again and this time was a 10 minute ride to the airport.

At the airport we were issued our boarding pass and luggage stickers. We said good bye to our shipmates of 5 days. The flight was delayed for more than an hour coming from Quito. We got into Quito around 4PM. We were picked up a good friend's family. They were very sweet and generous.

The family first took us shopping for souvenirs which we manage to replace the chullo hats we lost in La Paz. Then they took us to Old Town. I was glad we were able to see it on a quiet Sunday night. The colonial area were light up, but it was so quint. It really didn't feel like we were in South America.









In the far distance hill top was the virgin lite up in purple.


The family took us to a restaurant that had a roof top patio. Even though the patio was a bit chilly to sit and dine, we stayed a little while to take in the city view.



We dined inside and I enjoyed another shrimp cerviche. I must learn how to make this stuff.

By 9PM, the family took us back to their house. The father is an architect and it was no surprise their house was amazing. The daughters rooms was done in a loft style with an open second level. There was a wall that was smooth to the touch, but had the most interesting pattern. The roof of the house was all asymmetrically pieced with several sky windows and lined with dark wood panels.

Since the house was located half way up an alley. It was so quiet and we slept like babies.

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Location:Galapagos, Ecuador

Galapagos (Day 4) - Day 21

I woke up feeling a bit sad this was our last full day in the Galapagos. I asked myself again: why didn't we do the 8 day option?

Our day started with a walk to the top of Bartolome Island. The island doesn't have much to offer in terms of wild life or vegetation other than lizards and cactus. It was mainly a geological site which the volcanic lava rocks formed interesting landscapes . The weather was a bit overcast. I brought my rain jacket in case. The peak had wooden steps all the way up. It wasn't too hard since we weren't at 4000m anymore.


When we reached the top, the view was the entire island with the pinnacle rock sticking out of the blue sea. It was gorgeous.



There was also an underwater crater that can be seemed on top.



The sun came out just in time for snorkeling off of Gold Beach next to the underwater crater. The water was warmer and we saw a lot more than previous two days. White tip sharks, eagles ray, swimming sea lions and tons of colourful tropical fish.

We came back to the boat, did more lounging around before and after lunch. At 3PM, we hopped in the panga to check out Black Turtle Cove on Santa Cruz Island.

We turned off the panga engine and the guide paddled mostly through the lush mangrove covered cove. The complete silence made me want stay here forever and just stare at nature as it happens. We were lucky to be able to see baby sharks, rays, turtles and fishes very well through the clear and shallow low tide cove water. What a beautifully serene place for nature to flourish.












The hour went by very quickly. Before we knew it we were back on the boat again. This was our last night. The chef prepared us a BBQ feast on the sun deck at 6:30PM. The food was amazing. Giant prawns were the main course. Sangria was served as the twenty of us ate, talked in the soft sun set rays and ocean breeze. We even ignored, I meant, missed our guides' call for evening briefing.






During the briefing, we got our departure packages that included luggage tags, exit control tickets, ID stickers and etc.

Then we went back to our cabin to pack. I went to bed early since I started feeling a little sea sick.

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Location:Galapagos, Ecuador

Galapagos (Day 3) - Day 20

The Gravol knocked me out completely last night. I slept through the night like a baby and refreshed in the morning. Today's first point of interest after breakfast was Espinosa point on Fernandina Island. The panga dropped us off where hundreds of marine iguanas were trying to get warm in the early morning sun. They were hard to spot even when they are in a large group. They just blend into the black lava rocks so well.



We found an abandoned flightless cormorant egg.




Not even 5 feet away, we found out why... The mother or father bird was dead. It was really sad. But that is nature.





We did find another nest which the father bird was doing the nursing with the mother bird next to it. The father was very protective and nipped at the iguanas that came too close.



We then came across a mother sea lions teaching her cub how to swim.




Galapagos hawk that likes to eat baby iguanas.



Marine iguanas swimming to another warm rock to hang out.



All this animal watching got us really hungry. We came back onto the boat for lunch and I was so excited to see we were having Cerviche. It was wonderfully lemony and the shrimp was very juicy.



For dessert, I tried something I have never seem before: tree tomato. It was a little sour and the seeds were a little harder than a regular tomato. It was interesting, but it is not going to be my new favourite fruit.



Snorkeling off of Tagus Cove on Isabella Island was the first activity after lunch. The water was very cold compared to yesterday. Especially we had to jump in off the panga. There was no gradual walk into the water. We had hoped to swim with a few penguins. Instead we swam with a sea turtle and saw at least 5. After snorkeling, we took a panga ride along the coast to have a closer look at the penguins, pelicans, boobies and flightless cormorants. Of course, now all the penguins were in the water looking just like a duck. Finally we did find 3 on the rocks.











The panga then dropped us off on the island. We passed a sea lion bachelor pad (only male sea lions hang out there) which smelled really bad.



We climbed about 100 steps to get to Darwin's Lake. It is a salt lagoon that formed in the island volcano crater. It is more saltier than the ocean, so no life lives in it.

When we got back to the boat, we followed a few whales.

After dinner, our guides informed us that we will be crossing the equator line from south to north hemisphere at approximately 7:45PM. Although we had already technically crossed it twice already during the overnight sailing, everyone rushed to finish their desserts and grabbed their cameras to take a picture of the GPS when it reads 0'0". We all crowded into the bridge and watched the GPS intently. When it hit, it was like new year. Some people missed the 0'0" photo, so the captain backed up the boat two more times!! Oh, tourists...



That was a lot of excitement for one day. We were off to bed again by 9.

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Location:Galapagos, Ecuador

Galapagos (Day 2) - Day 19

Breakfast was at 7:30 and by 8:30 we were ready to hit our first island of the day: Rabida. On the bright red beach was where we saw our first blue footed boobie. There were also many sea lions and marine iguanas sun bathing.









Then we got to snorkel for the first time off of red beach. The water was pretty cold. But once you got over the initial shock, the water was pretty nice. We didn't see much. It was pretty boring with only a few tropical fish here and there.

We came back to the boat around 11AM and were greeted with cold iced tea and little sausage snacks. I can really get use to this!

After lunch we did some napping on the sun deck. Our second island of the day came around 2:30. Santiago island use to be inhabited by humans for the salt business. But the business went dry when it got competitive. The people left. There were a few abandon houses. When we walked around to the coast of the island we found a sea lion mother with her cub that couldn't have been more than a day old. The cub cried and struggled to find her mom's nipples to feed. We all watched in fascination for at least 30 minutes.







Little did we know 30 meters away there were a nursery of 5 cubs. Mother sea lions often leave their cubs for a week to hunt for food. So during that time cubs have to stay back on shore and wait for mom to back to feed them. There is usually a male sea lion that is keeping a watchful eye on them and make sure they don't go to sea and get eaten by sharks.






We came across more sea lions and even a dead one (the guide thinks he died of old age since it was a quite a large one).

Snorkeling again off of black beach on Santiago island. This time we saw a bit more creatures including orange looking koi-like fish and a big sea turtle.

We came back to the boat. Yes, more yummy snacks and cold drinks. The crew also turned on the "hot tub". Actually the water was just sea water and was heat up a bit the sun. But we still loved it and I asked myself again: why didn't we do the 8 day option?




The day sets as we watch the chef setting our dessert crepe on fire with at least 3 kinds of alcohol and topped off with a scoop of chocolate ice cream.



I took a Gravol before going to bed. The boat was going to sail all through the night and I had already started feeling the nausea.

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Location:Galapagos, Ecuador

Galapagos (Day 1) - Day 18

Our flight out of La Paz arrived in Quito just after midnight. Immigration was a breeze and we were done in less than 10 minutes. We took a cab to a hotel near the airport for a nap before our flight to Galapagos at 7:50AM.

My first impression of Quito was quite different than what I had originally imagined. The streets were clean and kept up. The buildings were not tall and massive, but definitely not rundown. The people looked different from Peru and Bolivia. They looked more Spaniard.

The morning came too soon. We were at the airport again at 6:15AM and excepted to be met up with an agent from our tour company for our 5 day tour. Instead it was an utter chaos. We found no one and had no instructions. We were put into a line up with no marked signs by an AeroGal staff after he examined our reservation documents. But we were still puzzled and wondered if we were missing something. Someone who stood behind us overheard us talking. She informed us that we had to get our luggage scanned using the outside entrance. So we ran outside and re-entered the airport. We were back at the same check in line, still unsure whether it was the right line. But now we were also stuck behind a big senior tour group from Australia. We waited patiently while chatting up the people behind us. They were on the same 7:50 flight and thought was odd that was no flight of that time listed on the monitors.

The mystery grew as the people behind us got pulled up to check in. Now there was no one behind us. Have we been scammed? Finally, the woman who was busy checking in the senior tour group before looked up us and asked if we were so and so. It was a relief to hear our names. Then she told us we had to pay the 10 USD each for a transit control card next to the luggage scan area. I rushed to do that quickly while our luggages were being checked. The agent then went on giving us a 20 second run down of what is going to happen and slapped on a red sticker on us to indicate which boat we belong to.

By 7:20AM we were at the gate waiting for our flight. Now we wondered about the flight route. We didn't know what was the deal with Guayaquil and Baltra. When the plane landed in Guayaquil after 35 minutes in the air, we really wasn't sure if we were suppose to get off or not. We were instructed to stay on the plane as it fueled and loaded more people on board.

The plane took off again and we were headed to Baltra Island. When we landed, it was so nice to feel the warm breeze. But more paperwork had to be done. It felt like we were entering another country. We had to go through transit control, pay our 100 USD each park fee and have our hand luggage checked again for fruits and vegetation.



The nature guides Andres and Alejandro from our boat rounded us up and we took a short bus ride without our checked bags to the dock. The boat was anchored in the middle of the bay; so we had to be zodiac'ed (or pango in Spanish) over to it.



The boat was a large wooden boat with a sun deck on top, bridge and cabins on the second deck, dinning hall, bar, hot tub and cabins on the first deck and just cabins on the lower deck. The boat only carried 20 passengers and 10 crew members. Not a bad ratio.





We were given housing keep briefing before lunch. There was an one hour difference between galapagos islands and the mainland. But the boat kept mainland time. We had to have two pairs of shoes. One for the boat and one for island excursions. Apparently, we would be stepping in sea lion and iguana poop on the islands and that would not smell too good inside the boat.

Lunch was amazing. I haven't eaten so well since the trip started. Then our luggage arrived on the boat. I was relieved. The last thing I needed was stuck in one pair of pants for 5 days without a bathing suit.

As soon as the luggages arrived, we were off to our first destination: Dragon Hill on Santa Cruz Island. The main attraction for this island was the bright yellow and grey coloured land iguanas. But since it was our first, we took pictures of everything. Our guide laugh and told us by the end of this trip we will be so "sick" of iguanas, crabs and birds.








We came across a few black colored marine iguanas, sally lightfoot crabs that shed its complete shells every year, and land finch birds. We spent about 1.5 hours exploring the land.




When we came back to the boat. The chef had prepared a cheese puff snack dipped in honey for us.



At this point I had completely forgotten about the chaotic morning. This was going to be awesome! Then I asked myself "why didn't we book the 8 day option?".

We chilled on the sun deck and noticed a flock of Frigatebirds hitching a ride. They were flying so close to the boat that if I stood up I could catch one of them.




Dinner was fantastic again. I was certain that I would gain all of the weight I had lost in the last two weeks back in no time. After dinner, we had a briefing of tomorrow's activities. Then we were off to bed at around 8:45PM.

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Location:Galapagos, Ecuador